Installing Parquet

 

TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION
• Tape measure
• Spirit level
• Pencil
• Chalk line
• Workbench or sawhorse
• Combination square
• Planks of flooring
• Spacers, Tapping block & Pull bar
• Rubber mallet
• Underlay and underlay tape (if needed)
Ensure you have the following tools ready before starting:
• Handsaw, electric saw, chop saw or Stanley knife
(depending on flooring type)
• Chisel (for fitting around architrave)
• Drill (for covering pipework)
• Moisture meter – the correct type for your
subfloor
• Beading or skirting boards (for finishing)
• Adhesive and trowel (for gluing installation)
• Safety precautions i.e. knee pads, safety goggles, dust masks, ear defenders

INSTALLATION OPTIONS
This guide will take you through two methods for installing parquet flooring. If you’ve chosen tongue & groove solid or engineered wood, nailing the floor is also an option.
Please consult the respective installation guides for detailed guidance for the nailing method.
Note: Installing parquet flooring can be intricate, requiring precise measurements.
If you feel uncertain, we advise hiring a professional fitter for the job.

FLOATING METHOD
In the floating installation method, boards or tiles are interconnected with each other rather than being affixed to the subfloor. It’s important to have
underlay installed and prepared beforehand.
This method is ideal for click-joining floors.
However, floating your tongue & groove parquet floor is not recommended as it may compromise sturdiness.

GLUING METHOD
This method involves applying an adhesive to the subfloor and laying the planks on top. It’s suitable for tongue & groove flooring but we don’t
recommend it for click-fit boards unless installed over underfloor heating.
Important Information:
Tongue & Groove
Engineered wood boards feature a tongue on one side and a groove on the other. When assembled, they interlock securely, resembling a jigsaw puzzle.
Click-Fit
These boards effortlessly lock together which help to simplify installation. The floating method is typically recommended for this type of joining.
A & B Planks
This consists of two distinct pieces, an ‘A’ plank and a ‘B’ plank, these interlock with joins on opposite sides. This configuration is common in our parquet offerings.

TYPES OF PARQUET PATTERNS
Parquet flooring encompasses a range of patterns created from blocks arranged in intricate designs. This guide focuses on the following styles:
HERRINGBONE
Short planks are arranged in a staggered fashion to produce a distinctive zig-zag pattern.
CHEVRON
Short planks are angled to converge in the centre, forming a pronounced central line resembling an arrow.
VERSAILLES
Blocks are intricately arranged in a square shape with detailed patterns adorning the interior.

REPARING TO FIT YOUR FLOOR

CHECK THE PLANKS
After your flooring has been delivered, inspect your packs to ensure you’re completely happy with everything. It’s normal to expect variety between
planks and batches due to natural variations in the wood. Variations help create colour contrasts and deliver a more natural look.
1
ALLOW ACCLIMATISATION
You should keep the packs horizontal with equal weight distribution. Solid wood flooring should be left for 5–7 days, while engineered wood flooring
should be left for at least 72 hours. Make sure your roomtemperature is between 18°C - 27°C and ensure there is no exposure to extreme elements.
For underfloor heating, you should gradually increase the temperature as per your heating supplier’s guidance – this helps get the wood more familiar with the heat.

SOLID WOOD  5-7 DAYS
ENGINEERED WOOD  72 Hours
Temp range between 18°C-27°C

2
PREPARE THE SUBFLOOR
Before laying the new floor, remove any existing flooring and ensure you have a clean, dry, and level subfloor. We recommend either a concrete or
wooden subfloor. ‘If your subfloor is made of joists, you’ll need to fix a layer of plywood over the top, to ensure it’s stable before you fit your floor.
Choosing the right plywood:
Once your plywood is down, check again that the subfloor is level.

3
PLAN THE LAYOUT
When planning the layout of your parquet floor, envision how you want the final look to appear.
For herringbone or chevron patterns, consider the direction and style of the design to create a captivating focal point in the room. With solid or
engineered wood flooring, look through the boards you have looking for their natural grooves and variations in shade. You can then use these boards
as focal points by blending different shades and patterns around them. If you come across some planks you’re not happy with, keep them for cutting
or use them in hidden spots on your floor.
Experiment with arranging the planks to create your desired pattern

4
FINAL CONSIDERATIONS
Make sure installing your floor is the last thing you do. Another important tip is to work from top to bottom of your room to minimise risk of damage.
Any kitchen units (including kitchen islands) must be installed before fitting your floor.

5
To make sure your subfloor is dry use a moisture meter, especially where concrete is used. Next, you’ll need to install a damp-proof membrane to prevent any moisture reaching the engineered boards. Secure screws or nails below the surface to avoid piercing the underlay. Make sure to clear the floor of any old adhesive and debris left over from the previous floor.
If you’re using underlay, this will be the final step of this stage. Lay the underlay out in the same direction as the floor and secure it in rows using tape.

INSTALLING YOUR FLOOR
ESTABLISHING THE LAYOUT
Measure the longest wall or the planned direction and divide it by two to locate the room’s centre line. Use a chalk line to mark this line as you’ll align the first strip of planks to it.
1
GUIDE LINES
Consider adding horizontal and parallel guide lines for precision, ensuring a 90-degree angle and marking the outer edges of each strip. Accuracy in
measurements is vital for parquet installation.
2
FLOATING METHOD
PLANK SEPARATION
Organise the planks into two piles. Each strip consists of an A and B plank connected together, and the connected planks underneath.
3
PATTERN ALIGNMENT
For herringbone flooring, position the planks so that the highest point of the entire strip aligns with the centre line. The pattern may seem slightly
off-centre, but it will look more professional once additional strips are added.
4
LAYING THE PLANKS
Lay the planks in your chosen pattern, inserting the tongue of one plank into the groove of the next.
5
CHECKING MEASUREMENTS
After completing the first strip, ensure all measurements are accurate before continuing with the remaining strips.
6
CUTTING AND SECURING
Once all of the full planks are laid, measure and cut the planks to fit the pattern around the edges, leaving an expansion gap at the walls. Use spacers
as needed, and consider applying glue to secure smaller pieces

GLUING METHOD

ESTABLISHING THE LAYOUT
Similar to the floating method, measure the longest wall or the planned direction and divide it by two to locate the room’s centre line. Use a chalk line to mark this line as you’ll align the first strip of planks to it
1
GUIDE LINES
Consider adding horizontal and parallel guide lines for precision, ensuring a 90-degree angle and marking the outer edges of each strip. Accuracy in
measurements is vital for parquet installation.
2
PLANK SEPARATION
Organize the planks into two piles. For chevron and herringbone, one strip consists of an A and B plank connected together, while a Versailles strip refers to a column of connected squares.
3
PATTERN ALIGNMENT
Align the planks according to your chosen pattern, ensuring the highest point of the strip aligns with the centre line. In a herringbone pattern, it may
appear slightly offset to the right of the centre line due to its design. The look will come together as you continue adding additional strips. For Versailles
flooring, ensure that the centre of each square aligns precisely with the centre of the line for optimal symmetry and balance.
4
DRY-LAYING AND ADJUSTING
Dry-lay the planks in your chosen pattern and consider dry-laying a row of planks horizontally to create a guide point. Adjust the layout as needed to
maintain a central vertical line.
5
ADHESIVE APPLICATION
Apply adhesive with a trowel following the manufacturer’s instructions and fix the planks in place vertically, working in small areas. When fitting
Versailles, start by filling in the centre square and then proceeding above and below it.
6
GUIDED INSTALLATION
Once the first strip is set, use it as a guide for the remaining strips.
7
FINAL ADJUSTMENTS
After laying all of the full planks, measure and cut planks to fit the edges of the pattern, leaving an expansion gap at the walls.
8
ALLOW FOR SETTING
Let the floor set for 24 hours before reintroducing furniture or walking on it.