Installation of Engineered Wood Flooring
TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION
• Tape measure
• Spirit level
• Pencil
• Workbench or sawhorse
• Combination square
• Planks of flooring
• Spacers, Tapping block & Pull bar
• Rubber mallet
• Underlay and underlay tape (if needed)
• Handsaw or electric saw
• Chisel (for fitting around architrave)
Ensure you have the following tools ready before starting:
• Drill (for covering pipework)
• Moisture meter – the correct type for your subfloor
• Beading or skirting boards (for finishing the room)
• Adhesive and trowel (for gluing installation)
• Flooring nailer or Tongue-Tite screws and
screwdriver bit (for nailing installation)
• Safety precautions i.e. knee pads, safety goggles,
dust masks, ear defenders
INSTALLATION OPTIONS
Engineered Flooring offers three main installation methods:
Note: This guide focuses on straight plank engineered wood flooring. For parquet, refer
to the specific guide.
FLOATING METHOD
Ideal for click-joining floors where boards are joined to each other rather than to the subfloor. You can also use this method for tongue & groove floors;
simply glue the joints of the tongue and the groove together. Don’t forget, whichever floor you’re fitting, you’ll need underlay installed for the
floating method.
NAILING METHOD
This involves placing secret nails on the tongue to secure planks to a wooden subfloor. This method requires a wooden layer above your concrete
subfloor. Don’t use this method for click-fit floors.
GLUING METHOD
This method involves applying an adhesive to the subfloor and laying the planks on top. It’s suitable for tongue & groove flooring, but we don’t
recommend using it for click-fit boards unless installed over underfloor heating.
Important Information:
Tongue & Groove
Engineered wood boards feature a tongue on one side and a groove on the other. When assembled, they interlock securely, resembling a jigsaw puzzle.
Click-Fit
These boards effortlessly lock together which help to simplify installation. The floating method is typically recommended for this type of joining.
REPARING TO FIT YOUR FLOOR
CHECK THE PLANKS
After your flooring has been delivered, inspect your packs to ensure you’re completely happy with everything. It’s normal to expect variety between
planks and batches due to natural variations in the wood. Variations help create colour contrasts and deliver a more natural look.
1
ALLOW ACCLIMATISATION
You should keep the packs horizontal with equal weight distribution. Solid wood flooring should be left for 5–7 days, while engineered wood flooring
should be left for at least 72 hours. Make sure your roomtemperature is between 18°C - 27°C and ensure there is no exposure to extreme elements.
For underfloor heating, you should gradually increase the temperature as per your heating supplier’s guidance – this helps get the wood more familiar with the heat.
SOLID WOOD 5-7 DAYS
ENGINEERED WOOD 72 Hours
Temp range between 18°C-27°C
2
PREPARE THE SUBFLOOR
Before laying the new floor, remove any existing flooring and ensure you have a clean, dry, and level subfloor. We recommend either a concrete or
wooden subfloor. ‘If your subfloor is made of joists, you’ll need to fix a layer of plywood over the top, to ensure it’s stable before you fit your floor.
Choosing the right plywood:
Once your plywood is down, check again that the subfloor is level.
3
PLAN THE LAYOUT
When planning the layout of your parquet floor, envision how you want the final look to appear.
For herringbone or chevron patterns, consider the direction and style of the design to create a captivating focal point in the room. With solid or
engineered wood flooring, look through the boards you have looking for their natural grooves and variations in shade. You can then use these boards
as focal points by blending different shades and patterns around them. If you come across some planks you’re not happy with, keep them for cutting
or use them in hidden spots on your floor.
Experiment with arranging the planks to create your desired pattern
4
FINAL CONSIDERATIONS
Make sure installing your floor is the last thing you do. Another important tip is to work from top to bottom of your room to minimise risk of damage.
Any kitchen units (including kitchen islands) must be installed before fitting your floor.
5
To make sure your subfloor is dry use a moisture meter, especially where concrete is used. Next, you’ll need to install a damp-proof membrane to prevent any moisture reaching the engineered boards. Secure screws or nails below the surface to avoid piercing the underlay. Make sure to clear the floor of any old adhesive and debris left over from the previous floor.
If you’re using underlay, this will be the final step of this stage. Lay the underlay out in the same direction as the floor and secure it in rows using tape.
FLOATING METHOD
MEASURE FINAL ROW WIDTH
Calculate the width of the final row to ensure proper plank alignment. To determine the width of the final row, divide the total width of the room by the width of a single board. This will enable you to trim the first row of boards, ensuring the final row is at least 60mm wide.
1
LAY FIRST PLANK
Lay the first plank in the corner of the longest wall with the tongue side facing the wall. Ensure this row is perfectly straight as it will guide the direction of the entire floor.
2
INSERT SPACERS
Insert spacers between the first row and the walls to create an expansion gap of 10-12mm. These gaps help to accommodate seasonal wood expansion and contraction.
3
SECURING PLANKS
If your planks feature a click-joining method, proceed to click them into place. For tongue & groove joining, apply glue to the groove before
joining it to the tongue. Secure the tongue & groove with a rubber mallet and tapping block
CONTINUE INSTALLATION
Stagger the joints from row to row to achieve a natural wood appearance.
5
MAINTAIN CONSISTENT GAPS
Maintain consistent spacing by placing spacers along the sidewalls.
6
FINALISE INSTALLATION
The final row may pose challenges, but a pull bar and rubber mallet can assist in achieving a snug fit.
GLUING METHOD
MEASURE FINAL ROW WIDTH
Calculate the width of the final row to ensure proper plank alignment. To determine the width of the final row, divide the total width of the room by the width of a single board. This will enable you to trim the first row of boards, ensuring the final row is at least 60mm wide.
1
APPLY ADHESIVE
Apply adhesive one meter from the longest wall before laying the first row.
2
LAY FIRST PLANK
Start laying planks in the corner of the longest wall with the tongue side facing the wall, ensuring each are straight. This is a crucial step, as it will establish the direction of the entire floor.
3
INSERT SPACERS
Place spacers between the first row and the wall to establish an expansion gap.
JOINTS
Continue to apply adhesive approximately one meter ahead of the previous row, staggering joints for a natural appearance.
5
MAINTAIN CONSISTENT GAPS
Throughout the installation place spacers along sidewalls to ensure uniform gaps.
6
FINALISE INSTALLATION
Utilise a pull bar and rubber mallet to snugly fit the last row into place. Allow 24 hours for the adhesive to set before moving furniture or walking on the floor
NAILING METHOD
ASURE FINAL ROW WIDTH
Calculate the width of the final row to ensure proper plank alignment. To determine the width of the final row, divide the total width of the room by the width of a single board. This will enable you to trim the first row of boards, ensuring the final row is at least 60mm wide.
1
LAY FIRST PLANK
Start laying planks in the corner of the longest wall with the groove side facing the wall, ensuring each are straight. It’s crucial to ensure that this row is perfectly straight, as it will establish the direction of the entire floor.
2
INSERT SPACERS
Place spacers between the first row and the wall to establish an expansion gap (10-12mm).
3
SECURE FIRST ROW
Using a nail gun, surface nail the first row of boards to the wooden subfloor to ensure they’re secure.
CONTINUE INSTALLATION
Continue to lay the floor and secure it by secret nailing with a powered flooring nailer or Tongue-Tite screws and a screwdriver bit. Stagger joints for a natural appearance.
5
MAINTAIN CONSISTENT GAPS
Ensure consistent spacer placement along sidewalls to maintain uniform gaps.
6
FINALISE INSTALLATION
Use a pull bar and rubber mallet to snugly fit the last row into place. Use the same surface nailing technique as used for the first row.